The Catlins

We just managed to check out of the hostel in time before any more hassle with the management. R+R were heading to the West Coast and I was heading South East and followed the Southern Scenic Route south through Manapouri and into The Catlins. The drive was such a contrast to the Fiordland I had come from, mountains gave way to rolling hills and lots of large farms – or 'stations'. I stopped off at The Clifden Suspension Bridge – an old disused bridge crossing a once mighty river that now has its flow limited by a hydro electric dam. I passed through Riverton, the South Island's oldest settlement just west of Innvercargel then through the city itself – nothing much to see here so I stocked up on food (more pasta) and headed into the Catlins proper. This is the South Eastern corner of New Zealand. A sinuous road winds through rain forest and over small hills down to moody beaches with deep dunes that are home to sea lions and penguins. I had planned to base myself at a place R+R had recommended. Surat Bay Lodge was situated at the Eastern end of The Catlins so I drove past all the 'attractions' and found the place and settled in for the night. Surat Bay Lodge is unsurprisingly on Surat Bay overlooking the sea in a beautifully rural location. Caroline, the owner welcomed me in and showed me to the dorm – there were a Taiwanese couple staying too and the lady spoke good English so we spoke for a while while we cooked our tea. I spent the evening sitting in front of the fire while watching The Bourne Identity on a badly tracked TV. To be honest, I was surprised that you could could get TV out here.

I woke up early and jumped in the car and headed back west to the sights I had sped past the previous day. First stop was Curio Bay. A beach that at low tide revels a petrified forest of fallen trees and stumps from the Jarrasic period. These fossilized lumps were amazing to see. I found it hard to believe that they were so old and not in a museum. Only in NZ. From here I slowly wound my way back east to the hostel stopping off at various beach stops and waterfall walks. The cloud had hung low all day giving the whole area a mystic feel, and this was compounded when I spotted a flock of sheep walking along the road towards me emerging from the fog! Back in the warmth of the hostel the fire was stoked and I tucked into a plate of pasta. I had the hostel to myself so I kicked back and relaxed.

The sunlight poured through the curtains indicating the arrival of a good day. Spurred on by this I jumped into the shower and made a packed lunch and headed out on a walk along the beach headed for Cannibal Bay – the next bay around. The sun was out, and in my eyes as I picked my way around the headland at high tide. Walking with my head down to avoid the glare I almost fell over a sleeping sea lion basking in the warmth of the sun! Retreating, I gave the beast a wide berth and continued on my way. Turned out there were tens of these massive sea creatures all over the long beach, disguised among the lumps of driftwood and sea weed. On my way back the tide had come in further, narrowing my passage of safety and I was chased by a particularly large male at one point as I tried to get past! Spying another large one further up the beach I decided to take a detour through the dunes – bad idea. Once finally back on the beach I got wet feet again by trying to get past a sleeping giant. It blew me away to see so many sea loins up close in the natural environment. Safely back in the hostel I made a brew and got ready to go Penguin spotting. I had been told that the rare Yellow-eyed penguin comes ashore about 2hrs before sunset so I headed over to Roaring Bay to hang out in the hide. I waited half an hour and say nothing. Maybe today wasn't the day. I started walking back to the car when I happened to glance back and spot a little black head bob up from under the breaking waves. I know instantly what it was and ran back to the hide to get a closer look The little thing got to its feet and waddled ashore, shook itself off and jumped from rock to rock to get to its nest. it was so cool to see, there are apparently only 3000 breeding birds in the world. Then another one came in! 2 penguins on the beach! A good day.