Tuesday 17 February 2009

Akaroa - Banks Peninsula


The transition from city to nature was almost instantaneous upon leaving CHCH. My aim was to get to Akaroa - the largest settlement of the region and have a snoop around. The drive out took me past some ace scenery. The rivers that drained to the Pacific Ocean were lined with many little fishing shacks - dilapidated caravans, tin sheds, scrap houses. These were the only thing breaking up the horizon for bland field after bland field. In the distance, the high ground that makes up the backbone of the peninsula could be seen beneath the threatening grey sky. I stopped for lunch at a conveniently situated cafe about an hour outside CHCH centre. This hexagonal building was at a dogleg in what was a very straight road and seemed to be very popular for somewhere so remote. I ordered a BLT bagel and eaves-dropped on a conversation between two civil engineers on the adjacent table while pretending to read a paper. It was the suits coupled with work boots that gave away their profession.

The road snaked its way into the valleys of the peninsula and slowly began to climb up, passing through tiny hamlets as it did. The weather was quite bleak now and soon I was inside cloud which obscured my view of the landscape. Akaroa is a coastal town and the road twisted it's way down a steep hill to get to it. I wondered how supply wagons coped with this brake-testing decent. I parked up and donned m Swannie as it was a wee bit chilly. Akaroa is a sleepy little place with a few things to keep the traveller entertained during the winter months! I had a good look at the local museum and a wander round town, before calling Steve at Onuku Farm hostel to confirm my bed for the night. A short drive out of town and up a hill and I pulled though the gates to the farm. Before I could even get my bag out of the boot, Steve had come out to greet me and offer me a brew. Top bloke. He told me the place was very quite at the moment and they had only just re-opened after winter. He introduced me to the German girl was acting as a manger for him and we sat around the fire drinking tea. I was given the guided tour of the place, including the infamous outdoor showers and his 'stargazers' (think a wooden tent with a perspex roof to view the stars). The hostel was build by his father and occupies an amazing position overlooking the natural harbour. Before sunset, another traveller arrived. amazingly, it was someone I had met over a month earlier while exploring Golden Bay. She was still living in her campervan! We spent an enjoyable evening drinking homebrew joined by a friend of the management from the village. As I snuggled into my bed that night, I thought how awesome this place and these people were.

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